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Seeing Plastic: The Time I Found Glitter in My Infant’s Eye

Nikki’s essay in Sierra Magazine, “One Parent’s Harrowing Encounter With Microplastic,” weaves the tales of having a piece of glitter removed from her cornea a decade ago, and more recently, finding a shiny blue speck of glitter in our infant’s eye with the implications of microplastic pollution on the environment and future generations.

Odd as these stories may seem, microplastic is entering the body all the time. We just don't normally see the tiny particles that are ingested with our food and drinks, the air we breathe, even through our skin. So much so that humans are now consuming the weight of a 4x2 inch Lego block of plastic per month.

 Looking at plastic pollution through the lens of the micro, this essay details a recent study revealing the negative implications of so-called “eco-glitter” on the environment, as well as business solutions, national and global policies, and cultural shifts that could lead to real change.

Getting Started: Growing Food and Memories

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There are so many reasons to start a garden. For us, growing food is as much about feeding ourselves and our family as it is about joy and curiosity, connection, empowerment, meditation, self-reliance, and resistance. We started trying to cultivate our own nutritious, organic food while living in New Mexico in 2016. Now in rural New Hampshire – five years, three gardens, and two climates later – we’re still growing, and of course, learning! This article chronicles how we built our gardens and provides resources for those in the early stages.

Once initiated, a garden takes on a life of its own. Memories are created each season tending the earth, savoring the fruits of our labor, and sharing the bounty with others. Seeds and soil remind us of our collective future and past, while the act of farming and gardening has the power to heal both people and the planet.

As an unsustainable industrial agriculture system continues to swallow up land worldwide, leading to deforestation, habitat loss, soil erosion, desertification, water pollution, land theft, exploitation, and countless other injustices, organic and regenerative gardening provide people with a way to combat climate change, sequester carbon, protect pollinators, embrace food sovereignty, and challenge the status quo.

Growing organically without the use of toxic pesticides, insecticides and fungicides has always been important to us, and even more so now that we are feeding two young children. We started by making some lasagna.

Squash, tomatoes, and green beans, oh my!

Squash, tomatoes, and green beans, oh my!

 The Lasagna Method & Raised Beds

Just as a garden nourishes us, it also needs to be fed. That makes nurturing the soil an essential part of the process. Living soil is filled with earthworms and healthy microbes that digest plant material, turning dirt into a fertile bed for seeds. Soil can be created and revived by adding compost, minerals, and manure, and growing cover crops.

We’ve used the lasagna method, also known as sheet composting, to build soil in our raised beds. This technique layers compost, mulch and newspaper or cardboard to create heat that transforms the materials into healthy soil over time. The process of creating the garden bed takes only about a couple of hours, depending on the size.

The Recipe

Step 1. Place cardboard or newspaper as the first layer directly onto the ground to block weeds. We used brown cardboard and removed all plastic tape.

Step 2. Compost, mulch, and (in our case) bagged soil, are alternated in layers, like preparing a lasagna. Watering the bed as you layer helps the material begin to break down. We’ve used food scraps as raw compost, and sticks and leaves as mulch.

Step 3. Start planting!

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The lasagna method using raw compost in our first raised bed (2018).

The lasagna method using raw compost in our first raised bed (2018).

The lasagna method layering cardboard, sticks, leaves, and soil in raised beds (2021).

The lasagna method layering cardboard, sticks, leaves, and soil in raised beds (2021).

The Result

In our first year gardening in the Northeast, we purchased a large amount of soil to fill the bed so we could plant right away. In our second year, we added just one layer of store-bought soil to the top of the bed at the beginning of the growing season to refresh it after the long winter (over which we did nothing to the bed). In our third year, we didn’t need to add any soil, and by this time we saw an explosion in earthworm activity when we began planting in the spring.

After three years of harvesting food and memories, we moved and left our single garden bed behind. As we put down new roots, we are revisiting the process. This time, instead of using raw compost in our raised beds, we used sticks and leaves as mulch when creating our lasagna layers.

We’ve had success growing in raised beds over the years, but realize many gardeners and aspiring gardeners don’t have access to land. Container growing can be more suitable for apartment living or for those with limited outdoor space. While living in New Mexico, we grew food in 5-gallon buckets under a clear plastic tent with very little knowledge. At that time, gardening itself was simply a thrill, and we were gratified with whatever we produced.

Though this year we are laying the groundwork for our most ambitious garden yet, that sense of gratitude remains. As has become tradition, each spring we love to admire the sprouts shooting up from the earth and take the time to appreciate the daily growth as the season progresses; wonders we have been delighted to share with our son.

In the garden we have found a classroom that we hope will also teach our children: a place to learn and make mistakes, where we can be bold, creative, and also humble in witnessing the magic of nourishing our family from seeds that have evolved with humanity over generations.

Why do you garden? Let us know!

Find More Gardening Resources Here:

Land Acknowledgement

Our garden is located on N’dakinna, which is the traditional ancestral homeland of the Abenaki, Pennacook and Wabanaki Peoples past and present. We acknowledge and honor with gratitude the land and waterways and the alnobak (people) who have stewarded N’dakinna throughout the generations.

Learn more about the Indigenous peoples of New Hampshire, past and present, here.

Whose land you are living, working, or growing on? Find out here.

Organic Gardening Video Tutorials: Building Raised Beds, Wick Irrigation, Garden Planning, and More

Sprouts, May 2020

Sprouts, May 2020

Over the last year, unprecedented numbers of people and communities turned to gardening to combat food insecurity and improve their health and well being during the pandemic. As we welcome in warmer and longer days this spring, our dreams of gardening through the cold winter months are transforming from ideas into realities.

Much like living soil and the plants and microorganisms they support, tending a garden is an evolving practice. To help both beginning and experienced gardeners acquire new knowledge and hone their organic growing techniques, we collaborated with the Northeast Organic Farming Association of New Hampshire (NOFA-NH) and Living Earth Farm to develop a series of free gardening video tutorials.

Five short videos cover the following topics:

Happy Planting!

From Poaching to Pandemics: The True Cost of the Wildlife Trade

Orangutans in a rehabilitation program at Matang Wildlife Centre, Borneo. 2017.

Orangutans in a rehabilitation program at Matang Wildlife Centre, Borneo. 2017.

Today, humans have greater access to exotic animals than ever before. A quick Internet search yields any manner of species and their parts for purchase. In the tourism sector where personal encounters with some the world’s most elusive creatures abound, riding elephants, swimming with dolphins, and petting tiger cubs are commonplace attractions. Globalization, factory farming, biodiversity and habitat loss have compounded the issue, creating new opportunities for people and animals to meet in unlikely places; from panthers and coyotes roaming crowded cities, to food markets and pet expos crammed with fauna that would never cross paths in nature, producing the perfect environment for pathogens.

This is how the novel Coronavirus has come to be.

A zoonotic disease originating in animals, COVID-19 is believed to have spread to humans from a pangolin infected by a bat at a wet market in Wuhan, China, where caged exotic and domestic animals waited side by side for sale and slaughter.

Though pangolins are one of the most widely trafficked animals on Earth, making them a poster child in the crusade against the illegal wildlife trade – the fourth most lucrative black market in the world – not all are wild caught. Some are raised in captivity for use in cuisine and traditional medicines in Asia. Regardless of where such animals are obtained, how they are treated has immense consequences.

Scientists cautioned us for years about the imminent threat of a global pandemic and its likely link to animal exploitation, evidenced by previous outbreaks of zoonotic diseases like HIV, Ebola, H5N1, SARS, and others. In 2017, the Center for Disease Control and Prevention confirmed that 75% of “new or emerging infectious diseases in people come from animals.”

When COVID-19 was connected to a live animal market in Wuhan, China responded by banning the trade and consumption of wildlife in an effort to control the virus. Despite reports that the industry has already gone underground, the legislation is a significant step in the right direction. Yet we must also acknowledge that humanity’s appetite for wildlife extends beyond the plate.

In the United States, our cultural addiction to rare beasts is exemplified by the booming exotic pet trade, a largely legalized and under regulated economy enabling average citizens to purchase animals like alligators, tigers, wolfdogs and apes. Our social acceptance of these loose laws only increases the likelihood of ownership, abuse, poaching, ecosystem degradation, and infectious disease.

Curbing the $23 billion illegal wildlife trade is critical to the survival of many threatened animals and ecosystems, but we should be equally concerned with the astonishingly pervasive legal trade in wildlife and its impacts on environmental and human health, as well as the global economy.

According to a recent World Wildlife Fund report, failure to urgently address the environmental crisis will result in a $10 trillion global loss by 2050, with the United States projected to lose up to $83 million in GDP annually by that year: the largest of all losses. Alternatively, a 2018 report by the same agency revealed that nature is worth an estimated $125 trillion annually, and is the foundation supporting all economic activity. Of course, nature is truly priceless, but such reports make the choice clear: protecting our planet’s incredible diversity is also the one that safeguards our economies, countries, and species.

The Coronavirus may be a grim reminder of humanity’s unchecked entitlement to the natural world, but it is also a valuable teacher – if we are willing to learn.

Boundaries – What the Animals Teach

My New Essay in The Hopper Magazine

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This was the title of an article I was writing the morning I was bit by one of the wolf sanctuary’s rescues, just weeks before our two years of working with captive-bred wild canines would come to a close. And while the incident was both entirely out of the ordinary and also my fault, it was nonetheless emblematic of some of the loudest lessons learned during my time there.

Working with wolves taught me the importance of conscious attention, respect for boundaries, and to reject complacency in my inner and outer world.

My essay “Jaw Pressure” published in Issue IV of The Hopper (in print!) describes what can happen when humanity violates nature’s boundaries and underestimates its wildness.

We are living in an age where the rampant disrespect of human and wild life is being challenged on a global scale. Human rights, animal rights, and environmental justice are some of the most important issues of our times. With that in mind, “Jaw Pressure” also explores the link between violated boundaries and domestication, whether self-inflicted or imposed, and how we might overcome these trappings by reconnecting with wilderness, and in so doing, our true selves.

You can get ahold of my essay and the other great stories, art and poems in The Hopper here.

I Had a Traumatic Childbirth and I'm Not the Only One

Glamour Traumatic Childbirth Know Stone Unturned

Childbirth is one of the most amazing parts of the human experience, but for some women it can also be traumatizing. When I began to share my traumatic birth with other women I realized my experience was more common than most people think. I am excited to share that Glamour has published my essay on this difficult topic, as it is my hope that this article might bring healing to others who are also suffering.

Read the full article here.

I want to extend my deepest gratitude to my husband, Chadley, for his endless support before, during, and after the birth of our baby boy, Mesa, and to our amazing medical team at Concord Birth Center and Concord Hospital, who kept us all safe. Thank you to our family and friends who listened to my birth story and shared yours. You all gave me the strength to bare my soul here.

Comment by July 15th to Keep Wolves Protected Under the Endangered Species Act

Maki, a rescued wolf-dog at Wild Spirit Wolf Sanctuary, 2015. Photo Credit: Nikki Kolb

Maki, a rescued wolf-dog at Wild Spirit Wolf Sanctuary, 2015. Photo Credit: Nikki Kolb

Wolves create biodiversity. Contrary to the myths that have demonized them for centuries, wolves are essential to the lifecycle of their ecosystems. As a keystone species, they keep all aspects, from trees, to rivers, insects, mammals and birds in balance. Without them, things fall apart.

Evidence of the need for wolves in North American ecosystems has been well documented, and most famously in Yellowstone National Park where the species was once eradicated. In the absence of wolves, their prey – elk and deer – were free to overpopulate and overgraze, stunting new growth in the forest that led to riverbank erosion, species loss, and an overall ripple effect that degraded the local environment. But when reintroduced, the park was restored.

Knowing that wolves are crucial to the health of their ecosystems, ensuring their protection after centuries of slaughter is critical, especially now, as the federal government considers prematurely removing protection for gray wolves under the Endangered Species Act in the lower 48 states. The move would turn wolf management over to the states, likely subjecting wolves to hunting and trapping, which has already been demonstrated in states like Montana, Wyoming, and Idaho, where wolves have been delisted.

“These states are not managing their wolves like other wildlife,” the Wolf Conservation Center explains. “Instead, their goal is to aggressively drive wolf population numbers down to the bare minimum required by law.” From 2011 – 2013 when wolf management was turned over to 6 states, nearly two thousand wolves were killed. Thousands more have perished since in these states and others where protections were temporarily or permanently lifted.

Once roaming the U.S. in the millions, about 6,000 gray wolves remain in the wild in the contiguous United States today. While wolves have rebounded in some parts of the country due to ESA protections, they have only recovered a fraction of their former range, raising red flags for scientists and wildlife advocates who warn that removal from the ESA would have dire consequences for their long-term survival. If delisted, it is likely the gray wolf will never achieve a viable population in places like the Northeast and southern Rockies where there is suitable habitat for their return.

The Fish and Wildlife Service’s open comment period on the proposal to remove wolves from the Endangered Species Act ends on July 15th.  If you care about wolves, this is the moment to make your voice heard, ensuring that we, and future generations, can continue to admire this species as a national treasure, along with the benefits they bring to our planet’s ecology.

To comment on the proposal directly visit this link, or comment via the Wolf Conservation Center here. We invite you to use language from this article to make your case for protecting wolves, or to use the Wolf Conservation Center’s ‘ESA Talking Points to Guide Your Words.’ You can further the fight for wolves by sharing this article and spreading the word.

To learn more about the human-wolf conflict, check out Outside Magazine’s ‘Wolves and the Endangered Species Act, an Explainer.’

Tips for Long-Term Backpacking on a Budget: Part II

We know that the prospect of long-term backpacking, especially on a budget, can be both exhilarating and terrifying. If you’re wondering how far you can stretch your funds, what to do about insurance, how to protect yourself against identity theft, what types of technology will be your best friends, and just plain how to approach life on the road, then this article is for you! (Click here for Part I of this series covering planning your trip, transportation, accommodations, and health and wellness.)

 

Money Matters 

Budgeting: We attempted to budget $50 a day between the two of us (including our hotel costs, but not including flights). Travel gurus like Nomadic Matt recommend this budget for 1 person, but we tried it as a couple. Most of the time, we stayed on target. Travel days and tourist days usually threw this out the window though, and that was ok, because there were plenty of times when all we did was cruise the beach or explore a town with our only expenses being food and accommodations. For the first month of our trip, we were very lax about budgeting. After noticing our bank account quickly draining, we immediately set out on a budget, logging purchases every day in the Notes app on our phone. We definitely recommend budgeting from day 1, especially if you have no income. Don’t be fooled by the allure that everything’s cheaper in a particular region. No matter where you travel, every purchase adds up.

Exchanging Money: Though convenient, it’s not necessarily advantageous to change a lot of money at the airport. The airport exchange counters will often boast ‘no fees,’ but that is typically in exchange for a higher conversion rate than you might find on the street. This is where your conversion app comes in handy. Do a conversion ahead of time so you know what to expect. We always tried to use up most of our money in a country before we left, and then took out money at ATMs in the new country.

ATM Fees: Speaking of ATMs…those fees really do add up so take out as much money as you can at a time, every time.

 

Insurance, Finance, & Identity (Oh My!)

Insurance: We used World Nomads for our health insurance and to insure our gear from damage or theft. World Nomads is super flexible regarding the length of time you can purchase insurance. They have seemingly good coverage (we only say that because we never actually used it), and a comprehensive website with tons of travel tips.

Banking & ATMs: On the Thai island, Ko Lanta, we experienced every traveler’s nightmare – our bankcard got stuck in an ATM at 711 (pictured is the actual ATM that ate our card). At this point in our travels, we had no SIM card, so we could not make a phone call to the bank. We waited for about 40 minutes hoping the card would come out, but it never did. A good Samaritan let us use his phone to call the bank, but conversation was difficult with the language barrier. Long story short, our amazing AirBNB hosts tracked our card down on the mainland, and we were able to pick it up a week later in Krabi. Luckily, it perfectly coincided with our onward trip to Cambodia. If it hadn’t, we would have had to cancel the card. All that said – we highly recommend using ATMs at a bank and during banking hours whenever possible. This way, if you have any issue, the tellers can help you on the spot.

Protect Your Internet Security with VPN: We used the VPN service ‘Hide My Ass,’ and it worked well the majority of the time. Where the Internet was weaker in general, it struggled to connect. What is VPN and how does it work? VPN stands for Virtual Private Network. It allows you to access the Internet safely and privately by routing your Internet connection through a foreign server while hiding your actions. VPN software encrypts your data making it so that your online activities appear like they are coming from the foreign VPN server, not your computer (thus, hiding what you’re doing – like entering a credit card number into a website, your IP address, etc.). Whenever possible, use your VPN, and especially for online transactions.

Avoiding & Dealing with Identity Theft, Thieves and Fraud: We had our credit card information stolen in Cambodia when making an online purchase over a hotel WiFi signal without using our VPN for just 5 minutes. At an ATM machine in Bali, our bankcards and pin numbers were copied directly from the ATM pad, and each of us had over $200 withdrawn from our accounts months after we returned to the States. Luckily, in both cases, our money was recovered. Fraud can happen at any time and when you least expect it. How to avoid it? Use your VPN whenever making online purchases. Make photocopies of important documents like your passport, license, and all credit cards. Store them somewhere other than where you regularly keep those documents, and hide your cash in several places throughout your bags. We also took out one credit card in each of our names in the event we were in a jam. This was especially helpful when we temporarily lost our debit card to that ATM.

Another tip: Do lock your bags whenever they are unattended, and if there’s a safe in your hotel room, use it. This isn’t personal. We struggled with feeling like locking our bags inherently meant we didn’t trust hotel staff. It doesn’t mean that. What it means is you can’t afford to lose your stuff. If you’re going to be in big crowds, consider a zippered backpack (we also secured our bags with carabineers) and shamelessly wore a fanny pack.

Negotiate Fees Ahead of Time: Whether that’s a hotel room, a cab ride, or a tour guide – it’s always better to determine the price in advance. No surprises make both parties happier. This is particularly important in very touristy areas. We had a tuk tuk driver that was taking us back and forth to Angkor Wat in Cambodia over several days. On the last day, we were continuing on to a farther destination. That morning, he and a group of other cab drivers swarmed us as we loaded into the cab to tell us that the day’s ride would be double the price of the others. Caught off guard, we begrudgingly agreed. If we had discussed the fee the day prior, all of that irritation would have been avoided.

Technology

Power Adapter

Power Adapters: This is something we wondered about before we left the States. Should we purchase power adapters ahead of time? What if we couldn’t find them on arrival and our electronics went dead when we needed them most? Ultimately, we opted to hold out until we arrived in each country, where purchasing the appropriate power adapter was either achieved in the hotel itself, or at a nearby grocery store (within walking distance). We only needed two adapters each for our entire trip. One worked in Indonesia, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar. The other worked in Malaysia and Hong Kong (pictured).

SIM Cards Are Your Friend: SIM cards make your life infinitely easier. They’re cheap, simple to get (at 711 or the grocery store), and are refillable by making a call. All you need is an unlocked cell phone. Before we discovered the world of SIM cards, we relied on WiFi for Internet and phone calls, which was both limiting and freeing. However, we felt much more confident when we started purchasing SIM cards, and were able to do a whole lot more, too.

Apps: We relied on a lot of apps during our travels. Here’s what we used: XE Currency Converter, our bank and credit card apps, Uber (yes, Uber is available in many countries), flashlight app, AirBNB, Hostel World, VPN (Hide My Ass), Google Translate, Google Maps (you can download maps directly to your phone to access without an Internet signal if needed), Agoda, Skype and What’s App for making free phone calls using WiFi. Note that you’ll need a valid phone number to use What’s App.

Equipment

Equipment: Depending on your purposes, you may need to bring more or less technical equipment on your trip. As bloggers, we each brought a laptop, mini external hard drives, shared an iPhone, a solar powered charger, and brought along a waterproof GoPro (highly recommended if you’re planning on snorkeling or scuba diving). We also each had a Kindle.

 

Adjusting to Long Term Travel

Cultivate an Attitude of Gratitude: Be flexible. Your attitude can make an uncomfortable situation either funny, tolerable, interesting, or miserable. We loved the advice we once read about imagining ourselves sprinkling magic fairy dust on everyone we encountered on our travels, especially those in the service industry. Smile. Ingratiate yourself. Asking people how they’re doing and taking the time to say thank you can go a long way. And tipping, though not necessarily expected, can really make someone’s day.

Dealing With Authorities: Immigration, customs, Visa processing, police – it can be intimidating. Be polite, own the frame, and act with integrity. You do not necessarily have the same rights you’re used to at home.

Drugs: We are not in favor of the criminality of substances, but we don’t make the laws. If you’d like to use some illegal drugs while you’re traveling abroad, you might want to look into the penalties for said activities ahead of time. The punishment you can face if caught for something as benign as smoking marijuana is pretty frightening in some places and totally not worth the risk (in our opinion).

Bagan

Respect Local Customs: As Westerners, we are used to being able to wear what we want out in public, but in some countries it’s not appropriate to go out without covering up, regardless of your gender. Even if it’s hot, even if it seems silly, or you just plain don’t like it, remember that attitude of gratitude and wanting to be a good steward on someone else’s land. Cover up when appropriate and respect the rules at religious sites.

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Speaking in Tongues: Make an effort to learn a little bit of the local language everywhere you go, even if it’s just hi and thank you. Locals always appreciate when you try to speak their language.

Bathrooms: Bathrooms vary where you travel, but in SE Asia, the toilet, shower, and sink combo are typically all in one space and sometimes crammed on top of each other. In our hotel in Hong Kong, we could shower, sit on the toilet and brush our teeth at the same time. In less developed countries you might also encounter the squatty potty, which is like a trough in the ground. Also good to know: in many SE Asian countries you should never put toilet paper, tampons or any other foreign objects into the toilet, as the plumbing cannot handle it. Spray guns attached to the toilet (bum gun as we called it), or just a bucket of water to wash off, may be found with or without toilet paper in some places. You get used to it. When we didn’t know what to expect, we brought our own TP, just in case.

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Sustainability: Traveling long term often leads to tourists producing heaps of waste in whatever country they’re visiting, be it plastic bottles, bags, straws, food packaging, and more. You can go the extra eco-friendly mile by bringing along a reusable water bottle, shopping bag, and straw. If this isn’t possible for some reason, opt not to use straws, reuse disposable water bottles and bags, and of course, recycle whenever possible.

Lastly, if you’re looking to see wild animals while abroad it’s essential to research all wildlife tourism outlets in advance. Check out our article on this subject to learn more about this industry, and the places we recommend visiting.

Enjoy Your Trip!

Bali Know Stone Unturned

Backpacking for an extended period of time is the experience of a lifetime. Enjoy every moment. You will likely cherish them for the rest of your life!

Let us know where you’re headed this summer in the comments.

GUIDE to Visiting Angkor Wat Archeological Park, Cambodia

Siem Reap

On the outskirts of Siem Reap, Cambodia, lies Angkor Archeological Park, home to the relics of the Khmer Empire’s once thriving ancient city consisting of hundreds of temples spread across 154 square miles of jungle and farmland.

Angkor was the capital of the Khmer Empire, which thrived from the 9th to 15th centuries, and may have supported over 1 million people. UNESCO declared the archeological park a World Heritage site in 1992, and considers the remnants of this once great civilization to be one of the most important archeological sites in Southeast Asia.

For many Cambodians and Buddhists, the temples remain sacred places of worship, but no matter your faith, these relics will move you with their undeniable soul.

Here’s what it’s like to visit. (Click on the headers below for a detailed review of each temple.)

RECAP: GETTING THERE, RULES & REGULATIONS, WHAT TO BRING

  • Visa On Arrival – Many foreign travelers will need to obtain a Visa On Arrival when traveling to Cambodia. No prep work or applications needed. Simply fill out the appropriate form at your port of arrival, wait in line, have your passport stamped by an immigrations agent, and carry on your way.

  • USD is the Official Tourist Currency – USD is the expected cash currency at all sites, restaurants, hotels, etc. Only fresh, unmarked and recently issued bills are accepted.

  • Dress Code – The temples are active places of worship, requiring respectful and appropriate garb. Women and men are expected to cover their shoulders, and legs should be concealed past the knee.

  • Get Your Pass – Passes can be obtained at the main archeological museum for 1, 3, and 7 days. Pass purchases are cash only with fresh US notes. Proper attire is required. The pass is a photo ID that you will have to present at each temple entry point, and it will be stamped each day it’s used.

  • Tuk Tuk’s – Hiring a tuk tuk driver to take you to the sites near Siem Reap costs about $20/day. With this fee you are hiring a private driver to wait for you at each site and take you to your next destination. Tuk Tuk’s to further destinations, like Banteay Srei and Kbal Spean, will cost about $40/day. Check with your driver in advance.

  • Biking – You can bike to Angkor Wat from Siem Reap and the surrounding area, but keep in mind the possibility for extreme heat, and that you’ll be required to bike through downtown Siem Reap to get there.

  • What to Bring - Sunscreen, your pass, water, camera, snacks, handkerchief, hat or parasol, US cash (small bills a plus).

  • Tour Guides – Tour guides can be very helpful if you’d like to dive into the history at each site. If you only have the cash to spring for a guide once, we recommend doing so at Angkor Wat or Angkor Thom to get the most bang for your buck. Look for guides from the tourism department. They’ll be in uniform with official tourism patches and badges. A two-hour tour at Angkor Wat costs about  $15, plus tip. 

We purchased a 3-day pass, which was good for 10 days, allowing us to spread our tour over a week, giving us plenty of time to rest up in between our temple days. If you have the time to spare, we recommend this approach. Visiting the sites is incredible, and exhausting. Make sure to hydrate and relax in between! 

DAY 1: ANGKOR WAT AND TA PROHM

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat, meaning ‘temple city’ is the main attraction at Angkor Archeological Park. Built in the 12th century by Suryavarman II as the king’s state temple and capital city, Angkor Wat, which was originally dedicated to the Hindu god, Vishnu, was transformed into a Buddhist temple in the 14th century, and remains an internationally relevant Buddhist site today. When the Khmer Empire left Angkor in the 15th century to build a new capital, Angkor Wat remained one of the only temples that was never fully abandoned. Historians believe this is the reason it has remained so intact. Its large moat added further protection by prohibiting the jungle from reclaiming it. French explorer Henri Mouhot introduced the site to westerners in the mid-1800s.

Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm has been left much in the condition in which it was found by westerners in the 1800s, and is one of Angkor’s most famous jungle temples. Overgrown with enormous trees, the temple has largely merged with nature making it a mystical sight to behold. Built in the late 12th and early 13th centuries under King Jayavarman VII as a Buddhist monastery and university, the temple was famously brought back into the spotlight by the 2001 film Tomb Raider.

DAY 2: ANGKOR THOM AND PREAH KHAN

Angkor Thom

After Suryavarman II’s death and the ransacking of Angkor Wat by Khmer enemies, King Jayavarman VII moved the capital to Angkor Thom in the 12th century where under his reign the present day ruins were built on the same site as a former Khmer capital. Angkor Thom houses the famous and widely recognizable Bayon temple, or temple of 1,000 faces, featuring over 200 gigantic blissful faces topping 37 towers. The old city is also home to the royal palace, the temples Baphuon and Phimeanakas, the Elephant Terrace, and the Terrace of the Leper King. This walled city is believed to have supported 80,000 – 150,000 people at its height. 

Preah Khan

Like Ta Prohm, the jungle is steadily re-claiming Preah Khan, and features incredible feats of crumbling temples supporting the growth of enormous trees with roots that have become part of their foundations. Built in the 12th century under King Jayavarman VII to honor his father, the site was a combination of city, temple and Buddhist university serving as a hub for nearly 100,000 officials and servants, including 1,000 teachers and another 1,000 dancers. The temple is built on the site of Jayavarman’s victory against the invading Chams in 1191. It’s modern name, adapted from the original, means ‘holy sword.’

Surrounded by a moat, the temple is built in a flat style with successive rectangular galleries gathering around a central Buddhist sanctuary. Like it’s neighbor, Ta Prohm, it has been largely unrestored, allowing the jungle to slowly overtake it.

DAY 3: BANTEAY SREI, KBAL SPEAN, AND PRE RUP 

Banteay Srei

Built from striking red sandstone and lined with well-preserved intricate and elaborate carvings, Banteay Srei is unlike any other temple in Angkor Wat Archeological Park. Located 16 miles northeast of the main Park, visiting Banteay Srei and its surrounding sites is a worthy commitment.

Known colloquially as The Pink Lady Temple and The Lady Temple, Bateay Srei is a 10th century temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and is the only major Angkorian temple that was not built by a monarch. It is most famous for its color, its small size, and equally miniature yet mightily impressive artwork. 

Kbal Spean

A jungle trek into the Kulen Hills will lead you to Kbal Spean: an archeological site of river carvings leading to a sacred waterfall. The site’s famous reliefs were carved by hermits into the naturally formed sandstone of the riverbed and its banks between the 11th and 12th centuries under the reign of King Suryavarman I, and King Udayadityavarman II. The site is also known as the ‘valley of 1000 lingas,’ and the ‘river of a thousand lingas,’ for the many lingas carved there (lingas are the phallic symbol representing the Hindu god Shiva). The Siem Reap River, which flows over the sacred lingas into Angkor, was believed to bless the city. Many other Hindu gods are also featured in the carvings. When the water table is low, the carvings are visible in a 150-meter section of the river in the middle of which is a naturally formed sandstone bridge. They stretch to a waterfall where visitors can bathe and be blessed beneath its spring.

Pre Rup

Overlooking the countryside and surrounding jungle, Pre Rup glows with a lovely reddish hue in the hours near sunrise and sunset due to its brick, laterite and sandstone construction. Aligned with a north south axis, this temple is dedicated to the Hindu god, Shiva. Locally believed to have been a mortuary, Pre Rup was built as a state temple under King Rajendravarman in the 10th century in the temple mountain style that is characteristic of many of the Angkorian sites.

GOOD TO KNOW

  • Handling Solicitation – The moment your tuk tuk arrives at any location expect to be approached by men, women and children looking to sell you anything from pants to guide books, postcards and trinkets before your driver can even park. When inside the sites, you may meet locals asking for donations, and encounter park staff or even police officers that will offer to take your photo in exchange for a ‘tip.’ The best way to handle these situations is a simple, brisk and sometimes repeated no thank you.

  • Temple Fatigue is Real – There is so much to see at Angkor Wat that it could easily take a month to dive into all the details of each of these ruins. Don’t try to do it all. Rest when you need to and call it a day when you’re ready. Though many people begin their tour at Angkor Wat as early as sunrise and trudge through the rest of the day in the heat, we opted to start between 8 and 9AM and wrap up by closing, which was perfect for us. The amount to see can be over-stimulating. We recommend taking time to just sit and be in those spaces, really commune with it. You may see a little less, but you’ll likely feel more. Pro Tip: We visited in March, one of the hottest times of the year, and noticed that the heat of the afternoon drove away much of the masses allowing us to enjoy several temples with very few other visitors. A real treat!

ENJOY YOUR VISIT!

These are the kinds of places that stir the heart and the imagination, that strike us not only with their awesome beauty and gateway to spirituality, but with their undeniable humanity that gives us pause by daring us to look at ourselves, where we’ve come from, where we are, and where we are headed as a global people.

Visiting: Pre Rup, Cambodia

Siem Reap

Pre Rup was the last temple we visited on our epic three-day tour of Angkor Wat Archeological Park. We arrived near sunset after spending the majority of the day in the Kulen Hills touring Banteay Srei and Kbal Spean. The brick, laterite and sandstone construction made this temple glow with a lovely reddish hue as the day neared its end, and we enjoyed the beginnings of a sunset from the top of the temple, overlooking the countryside and surrounding jungle. 

A BRIEF HISTORY OF PRE RUP

Aligned with a north south axis, this temple is dedicated to the Hindu god, Shiva. It was built as a state temple under King Rajendravarman in the 10th century – as early as 961 or 962 AD. Pre Rup’s construction is in the temple mountain style that is characteristic of many of the Angkorian sites, consisting of several outer walls leading to towering temples at its core. It was the second temple to be built in Angkor after the Khmer capital was returned to Koh Ker.

The temple’s name is relatively modern and translates to mean, “turn the body.” This is in reference to the common Cambodian belief that the temple was a hosting site for funerals, during which the body’s ashes were ritually turned in several directions throughout the services. 

ENJOY YOUR VISIT!

After a long day of temple touring, visiting Pre Rup was markedly relaxing. There were very few tourists when compared with the other sites we visited, allowing time for us to sit still and be. If you’re looking to capture this temple’s rosy pigment, keep in mind that Pre Rup shines its brightest in the hours near sunrise and sunset, making this site a perfect beginning or ending to your day or tour.

 

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